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Sunday, Aug. 10, 2008 , 12:00 a.m.

From the Great Wall to the Forbidden City, today's China has timeless quality

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BEIJING, China — For those who visited the China capital in the late 1970s or early 1980s, Beijing then bore little resemblance to the glittering, construction crane-filled city of today.

Streets once filled with people-powered bicycles have given way to more than 3 million gas-powered vehicles. Vibrant clothes have replaced the muted Mao Zedong-era garments, and residences dating to the Ming Dynasty have been replaced by high-rise apartment buildings as part of a great growth march.

Still, despite all of the changes, much remains the same.

For tourists who want to build their own tour of the world’s most populous country, there are plenty of guidebooks and independent travel guides. Most will prefer organized trips that are scheduled by concierges in hotels. Tourists are able to fill seats on scheduled tours or to hire a personal guide for a daily trip.

A trip to Beijing should include the basics: the Great Wall, the Forbidden City, Tiananmen Square and the silk, pearl and jade shops. The Drum Tower, the Summer Palace, the Ming Tombs, hutong and the tea room are worthwhile stops, too.

The original Great Wall dates to 200 B.C. but the major construction on the 4,500-mile wall occurred during the Ming Dynasty. Built as a defensive structure to hold off warriors from the north, the earthen and brick structure did little to hold off invading forces. Manchurians crossed the wall in 1644, overthrowing the dynasty in Beijing and installing the Qing rulers.

Badaling is a favorite tourist stop along the Great Wall, having been restored in the 1950s and the 1980s. The steep sections of the wall have added handrails to assist visitors in the climb. The wall was built to accommodate 10 soldiers across or two horse-drawn vehicles.

An “I made it up the Great Wall” T-shirt is a great item to wear in your Pilates class for bragging rights.

While in the vicinity of the Great Wall, plan a side trip to the Ming Tombs. Site of the burial grounds for 13 of the imperials, the Chang Ling site allows visitors to gaze upon a hall held up with 16 solid-cedar columns.

Photo by Tom Griscom
The Forbidden City, for five centuries the home of the Chinese emperor, now houses the Palace Museum.

The Forbidden City, home to emperors in the Ming and Qing dynasties, survived a number of fires and a push by the Red Guard during the Mao’s Cultural Revolution to destroy a remnant of the imperial rulers. The last emperor, Aisin-Gioro Pu Yi, abdicated his throne around World War I, marking the end of five centuries of rulers in the 180-acre complex.

Built between 1406 and 1420, a total of 980 buildings remain on the 180 acres that are enclosed by towering walls, several gates and tiled roofs, which are protected by animal caricatures that serve as guardians.

One gate faces Tiananmen Square, an open-air venue of more than 100 acres, with a picture of Mao Zedong looking across the plaza toward the hall that houses his preserved remains.

Near the Great Wall is the Drum Tower. Its 69 steep steps challenge the visitor to reach the top, where a series of replica instruments demonstrate the process that was used during the Yuan, Ming and Qing dynasties as timepieces.

Shopping is part of the tourist experience with a visit to Silk Alley and the adjoining Pearl Market. Knockoff branded items are plentiful, but so too are clerks more than willing to strike a bargain on silk, pearls and jade.

At the end of the day, having traveled through several dynasties and spending a sizable amount of yuan on souvenirs, a quick stop in a Chinese teahouse provides a remedy for any ailment.

And if you are completely healthy, ask for the blooming tea, which offers a great taste and an interesting flower arrangement suitable for display.

Take a walk along a section of the Great Wall of China just North of Beijing with a Chinese guide and a few Swedish tourists.


Take a photographic tour of the scenes in and around Beijing.


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