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Taking Sides: Fish tacos an acquired taste?

By: Anne Braly
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By: Holly Leber
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Editor’s Note: “Out to Lunch” is a monthly food feature by Times Free Press reporters Anne Braly and Holly Leber.

ANNE BRALY: I figured for the first installment of Out to Lunch, it would only be appropriate to introduce my fellow co-worker from New York City to fish tacos from Petunia’s Silver Jalapeno.

This dish is listed in the June issue of Bon Appetit as No. 8 on a Top 10 list for the best street food in the nation. I thought it would be a good choice for a New Yorker to try, since the Big Apple is famous for street food.

I was amazed that she’d never heard of fish tacos. Seems Chattanooga has something on New York for a change. I love fish tacos, and Petunia’s has some of the best around.

HOLLY LEBER: I’d heard of them but never tried them. It’s not the most appealing-sounding food in the world.

The painted silver trailer of Petunia’s is adorable, and Virginia Cofer, the owner, is sweet and welcoming, but I think fish tacos are just not my thing.

The first couple of bites were good, especially because I was hungry, but after that the spicy taste of the accouterments and the comparatively mild taste of the fish separated themselves and weren’t really complementary.

I did appreciate that the fish was grilled, not fried. And I love spicy, so the five-pepper sauce, black bean and pico de gallo accompaniments were welcome. But the taco just left a funny feeling in my mouth.

ANNE: Oh girl, I couldn’t wait to take the first bite and every one after that. I will say that since we brought them back to the office, they’d gotten a bit cold. They’re so much better if you stay and eat them at Petunia’s when they’ve just come off the grill.

I love the fact that she wraps the fish, slaw, sauce, beans and pico de gallo in a hard shell, then wraps a soft shell around it. I love the texture of soft and crunchy. Fits me to a tee.

I do agree that Cofer is one of the friendliest people around. She just makes you feel welcome. And she’s a great cook.

Too bad you’re a vegetarian. You ought to see what she does with smoked butt. She has this one dish where she layers the butt with barbecue sauce, baked beans and coleslaw, then tops it with a jalapeno corn cake. It’s like you’re having a barbecue party in your mouth with every bite.

HOLLY: Are there handsome men at that barbecue party, Anne? I really couldn’t help thinking if someone could eat one of the rather messy (they’re served with moist towelettes) fish tacos on a date and not be embarrassed, they’ve got a good match going on.

I’m vegetarian, though I’ll eat fish on occasion, which I think makes the technical term pescetarian, though that’s kind of a highbrow word. However, my last couple of experiences with fish, including this one, have left me a bit queasy, so I think I’ll be sticking strictly to vegetables from now on.

I’d definitely go back to Petunia’s Silver Jalapeno, even just for a chips and salsa snack. Their specialty food item might not have been too much to my liking, but the atmosphere certainly was.

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