Staff Photo by Lesley Onstott
Martha Harp places her first batch of biscuits on a baking sheet during a class at the The Big Biscuit Barn in Fort Oglethorpe. Owner Phyllis Cabe hosts biscuit-making classes every couple of weeks.

Martha Harp considers herself a fairly accomplished cook. She can bake great cornbread and cakes, but biscuits leave her frustrated.

"When I was younger, I was determined that I would learn how to make biscuits but never did," she said.

After attending a recent Lost Art of Biscuit-Making class at The Big Biscuit Barn in Fort Oglethorpe, she has a better handle on things.

Restaurant owner Phyllis Cabe, biscuit maker extraordinaire, said there is an art to making biscuits. She perfected the technique for years before opening her popular Fort Oglethorpe eatery, where biscuits are king.

"I was raised on a farm where Momma made biscuits every day," she said.

She knows the pitfalls one can encounter when trying to bake big, fluffy biscuits. She shared these tips with her class.

* Flour: The main mistake people can make begins with not properly measuring flour.

"You should take a spoon, dip it in the flour and spoon it lightly into the measuring cup," she told her class. "Then lightly tap a straight-edge (knife) over the top to tap down the flour, then draw it over the top to level it. You don't want to pack the flour down."

She also recommended using White Lily flour. "I've made them with everything known to man, but White Lily makes a lighter, fluffier biscuit," she said.

* Buttermilk: Fat makes any baked good better, she said, advising against using fat-free buttermilk.

"If you want something good," she said, "I say use fat."

* Shortening: Make sure you pack the shortening into the measuring cup to get the air pockets out.

* Leavening agents: Add a little extra baking soda to make biscuits wider. A little more baking powder will make them taller.

* Patience: Proofing the dough after mixing in the buttermilk for 30 minutes produces "something magical. No book will ever tell you to proof biscuit dough," she said. Also, proof the cut biscuits in the pan for 30 minutes to 2 hours maximum before baking them.

* Cutting the dough: To cut the biscuits, take the cutter straight down into and out of the dough. Do not twist or "corkscrew" it down.

Mrs. Cabe provided the following recipe for her students. It is not the recipe she uses for biscuits served in her restaurant.

Lost Art of Biscuit-Making Biscuits

2 cups White Lily self-rising flour

1/4 cup Crisco shortening

1 cup whole (not fat-free) buttermilk

Measure flour into large bowl. Cut in shortening, using a pastry blender or two knives. Make a hole in the middle and blend in buttermilk, stirring just till moistened. Don't overstir. Allow to proof covered in warm place for 30 minutes. Knead gently 2 or 3 times on a lightly floured surface. Roll dough about 1/2 inch thick. Cut without twisting cutter. Place on baking sheet sprayed with vegetable cooking spray, 1 inch apart for crisp sides or almost touching for soft sides. Allow to proof in warm place for up to 2 hours. Bake in preheated 500 F oven 8-10 minutes or till golden brown.

Class schedule

If you'd like to try your hand at biscuits, the next two Lost Art of Biscuit-Making classes will begin at 1 p.m. Oct. 31 and Nov. 7 at the Big Biscuit Barn, 1391 LaFayette Road, Fort Oglethorpe. Cost is $30 per person. Participants should bring their own mixing bowl and spoon. Those who have them also may bring a rolling pin and biscuit cutter. For reservations, call 861-0000.