published Sunday, February 24th, 2013

Cook: Green side up

"It can be done. We just have to have the will to do it."

— Will Allen

Before he became one of the most important men in America, Will Allen was driving through a neglected Milwaukee street, crumbs from donuts and fried chicken scattered across his car, on his way to another joyless day in a job he didn't like.

Then he saw a row of greenhouses. For sale.

It was like a north star.

Today, two decades and hundreds of tons of compost later, Allen could be the most well-known farmer in the U.S. His worm farms. His soil building. His revolutionary vision to create urban food systems.

"It's all about the food we eat," said the MacArthur Fellow.

Allen, who runs Growing Power in Milwaukee, will speak Tuesday to the public at UTC's Roland Hayes Auditorium as part of the Benwood Foundation's George T. Hunter Lecture Series.

The free event begins at 7 p.m.

"I have a thousand-image PowerPoint," Allen said over the phone (I'm still not sure whether he was joking).

You may not be a farmer. More comfortable with collars than collards. Karats, not carrots.

But Allen's story is the Everyman's tale. The American story. Because it braids together all the things in our lives: food, health and happiness.

"Passion," said Allen, who stands 6 feet 7 inches tall.

Allen's family tree is rooted in farming. Sharecroppers, family gardens, suppers that lasted for hours. So when he saw that long-ago greenhouse, Allen, working for Procter & Gamble after a pro basketball career dried up, felt his heart leap; he jumped off the corporate ladder and into the Milwaukee dirt.

Over time, he built his two-acre urban Milwaukee city farm into a national model.

"I call it the good-food revolution," he said.

Picture it: a few-acre farm built atop urban asphalt and concrete. Folks collect waste -- coffee grounds, brewery leftovers, food scraps from restaurants and schools -- which is composted into something so soil-rich Allen nicknames it "black gold."

"This past year, we've [turned] 40 million pounds of food and carbon residue into compost," he said.

Forty tons of vegetables grown each year. Under the summer sun. In year-round greenhouses. A five-story vertical farm.

"The first in the world," he said.

People are employed. Neighbors and kids educated. Other backyard gardens are planted. Programs funded.

"We're going to start getting folks slow cookers," he said.

Millions of composting worms. Thousands of fish (tilapia) are grown in an aqua-culture barrel system. Laying hens. Honey.

Disease drops. Despair drops. Good things grow. People, too.

"They can do things they've never been able to do before," he said. "Their whole outlook on life changes."

At a time when life expectancy can be predicted by ZIP code, eating too much bad food is one of the top killers in the U.S., and our obesity crisis costs more than $300 billion a year -- says Allen's book "The Good Food Revolution" -- then maybe it's time we put some heavier attention on the food we grow and eat.

Urban composting becomes part of candidates' political platforms. We talk about STEM schools, but also saving seeds. Raised beds.

Worm poop.

What I love about Allen is that, for all his genius, he keeps it simple. Follow your heart. Grow good food. In the city. For people.

And what I love about Chattanooga is that so many, many people here already understand that, too.

"My story is the story of thousands of people," he said.

Here's to thousands more.

Contact David Cook at or 423-757-6329. Follow him on Facebook and Twitter at DavidCookTFP.

about David Cook...

David Cook is the award-winning city columnist for the Times Free Press, working in the same building where he began his post-college career as a sportswriter for the Chattanooga Free Press. Cook, who graduated from Red Bank High, holds a master's degree in Peace and Justice Studies from Prescott College and an English degree from the University of Tennessee at Knoxville. For 12 years, he was a teacher at the middle, high school and university ...

Comments do not represent the opinions of the Chattanooga Times Free Press, nor does it review every comment. Profanities, slurs and libelous remarks are prohibited. For more information you can view our Terms & Conditions and/or Ethics policy.
nucanuck said...

Urban farming is possibly the top jobs opportunity for every city in America. So much healthy food can be grown on small areas by using greenhouses for year-round production and urban farming and aquaponics are truly "teaching people to fish instead of giving them a fish".

South Chattanooga's brownfields are ripe with possibilities that don't have to have big investments to become success stories. Of course any small close-to-the-city land has the same potential.

Chattanogan Steve O'Neal is extremely knowledgable about the ins and outs of urban farming and could help springboard a program worthy of national attention.

Is any small venture capitalist listening?

February 25, 2013 at 1:41 a.m.
jjmez said...

Great idea, nucanuck. Except for over the decades most of south Chattanooga's soil has been so contaminated by dumping dangerous and even carcinogenics agents on developed and undeveloped lands that the grounds maybe too unhealthy and unsuitable for planting consumable products.

But the solution for that may lie in planting above ground or, like in many cases now, not even using soil to plant eatable goods.

February 25, 2013 at 9:29 a.m.
nucanuck said...


You are right, the best way is to work from the surface up. The existing ground just becomes the platform for raised beds, hydroponics, and aquaponics with greenhouses making it a year-round enterprise.

With today's greenhouse growing technology, we don't need to import so much food from thousands of miles away.

And what could be better than teaching locals how to grow and eat a healthy diet!

February 25, 2013 at 10:01 a.m.
please login to post a comment

videos »         

photos »         

e-edition »


Find a Business

400 East 11th St., Chattanooga, TN 37403
General Information (423) 756-6900
Copyright, Permissions, Terms & Conditions, Privacy Policy, Ethics policy - Copyright ©2014, Chattanooga Publishing Company, Inc. All rights reserved.
This document may not be reprinted without the express written permission of Chattanooga Publishing Company, Inc.