Side Orders: Feasting on 'nana pudding

photo Anne Braly

What is it about bananas and vanilla wafers -- two of the most-common foods on the market -- that, when paired, make one of America's favorite desserts? Banana pudding. And it's amazing how many different ways there are to make it.

For proof, you might want to make the drive to Centerville, Tenn., for this weekend's National Banana Pudding Festival, where cooks will make some of the most-remarkable banana puddings in America.

"Since the beginning of the festival in 2010, I have seen some very creative recipes for banana pudding," says festival chairman John Blackburn. "Chocolate, nuts, different fruits, homemade cookies and, on two occasions, bacon as an ingredient in a contestant's pudding. I can't wait to see what comes up this year."

Growing up, I remember our housekeeper, Rosa, would come every week and, boy, could she ever cook. Many folks said she made the best banana pudding around. She'd whip the daylights out of the egg whites to make the fluffiest meringue you ever saw, then she'd flavor it with "just a smidgen of vanilla," I remember her saying. I think I must have known even back then I'd grow up to write about food. When we were together in the kitchen, I'd hang onto every word Rosa said.

Through the years, I've had a number of different banana puddings, many like Rosa's; others very different. There was once a restaurant in Lookout Valley that made its banana pudding with Nutter Butter peanut butter sandwich cookies rather than vanilla wafers. Peanut butter and banana are a well-established food pairing, I'm surprised no one thought of putting them together in banana pudding sooner.

I've also made banana pudding with sweetened condensed milk rather than whole milk. The pudding is even sweeter and thicker, the stuff of which dreams are made. And some people forego the meringue in favor of whipped cream. Nothing wrong with that unless, of course, you are a traditionalist.

Visit most any barbecue restaurant or any Southern diner and you're bound to find banana pudding on the menu. What is it about this dish that is so Southern, you may ask? I called my friend Damon Lee Fowler, a Savannah, Ga. native, cookbook author and food historian.

Banana pudding derives from the late 19th century, he says, noting that the oldest recipe he's ever come across was one found in "The New Orleans Picayune's Creole Cook Book" from 1900. So it quickly took hold in the South.

"And why not? It's cool, rich and sweet," he adds. "That's probably reason enough."

But to me, it all has to do with bite after bite of Southern comfort.

So if you go to the Banana Pudding Festival this weekend, be prepared to indulge. The festival is held at the River Park in Centerville from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. CDT Saturday and noon to 5 p.m. Sunday. Admission is $5 per person, school-age and up. For more information, log onto bananapuddingfest.com.

To get you started, here's a recipe from Christine Wendland, a chef in New Jersey and cookbook author.

Roasted Banana Walnut Pudding

1 cup light brown sugar

3 tablespoons cornstarch

1/4 teaspoon salt

2 cups whole milk

2 1/2 cups heavy cream, divided

4 large egg yolks

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon dark rum, divided

1 cup whole walnut halves

1/2 cup white sugar, divided

45 vanilla wafers

5 ripe, firm bananas

In a heavy saucepan, mix together brown sugar, cornstarch and salt. Add milk and 1 cup cream, stirring over low heat to dissolve. When sugar is incorporated, spoon about 1/4 of the warm milk into the egg yolks and whisk to temper. Add the egg yolks back into the saucepan, whisking constantly. Raise heat to medium and cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture begins to thicken. Bring to a simmer; reduce heat to low and cook 1 minute, stirring constantly. Remove from heat, strain into a shallow dish, and stir in vanilla, 1 teaspoon rum and butter. Press a sheet of plastic wrap on top to prevent a skin. Cool completely.

Meanwhile, roast walnuts in a 400-degree oven until fragrant and browning in spots, about 10 minutes. Allow to cool.

In a large bowl, whip remaining 1 1/2 cups heavy cream with 1 tablespoon rum and 1/4 cup white sugar until soft but firm peaks form. Cover and refrigerate.

Slice the bananas lengthwise, and lay cut side up on a baking sheet covered with parchment paper. Dust the tops liberally with the remaining white sugar. Run under a broiler until tops are golden brown, 3-5 minutes. Remove and let cool.

To assemble, lay vanilla wafers in the bottom of a 9-by-9-inch glass baking dish in a single layer. Spoon half the pudding on top of the wafers; top with half the bananas broken into pieces. Spoon half the whipped cream on top, smooth, and sprinkle with half the walnuts. Repeat the layering of vanilla wafers, pudding, banana, whipped cream and walnuts. Decorate the top with additional vanilla wafers and walnuts. Serve cool.

On the road

For those of you traveling to beaches in the Sandestin, Fla., area along Highway 30A during Fall Break and beyond, there's a lot to do if you're a foodie. Here are some more events of interest for those of you whose vacation isn't complete without gourmet foods and drink:

• Friday is the start day for the 30A Throwdown, a weekend-long competition between local chefs at restaurants in South Walton County. The winner takes home the Savor South Walton Champion trophy.

• Baytowne Wharf Beer Festival, Oct. 17-18. More than 40 brewers of craft beers will offer almost 200 different brews for sampling in the heart of Sandestin.

• Taste of the Beach Wine, Dine and Donate; Oct. 31-Nov. 2. An event that encompasses the best foods and wine the area has to offer. There will be wine tastings, dinner events, a charity auction and more.

• Seeing Red Wine Festival, Nov. 6-9. Featuring four days filled with special programs: wine dinners, brunches, wine tastings, seminars and demonstrations.

For tickets and more information, log onto visitsouthwalton.com.

Contact Anne Braly at abraly@timesfreepress.com.

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