Taste sensations: Doughnut makers always searching for next big flavor

Molly Hall puts a selection of hand-decorated doughnuts in the case at Julie Darling Donuts on Frazier Avenue.
Molly Hall puts a selection of hand-decorated doughnuts in the case at Julie Darling Donuts on Frazier Avenue.

It's Homer Simpson's dream job: brainstorming brand-new doughnut flavors then making the fantasies real.

It happens every Thursday at 7 a.m. in Julie Darling Donuts on Frazier Avenue. The staff gathers near the cardboard cutout of Elvis and tries to conjure the perfect summer doughnut -- fresh, sunshine-y, happy. Their biggest hit was a shortcake-ish doughnut topped with juicy, just-picked strawberries, the only time the shop has used fragile fresh fruit since it opened in 2010.

photo Jacob Hardin removes the holes while making fresh doughnuts.

Create a doughnut

If you have an idea for a doughnut flavor, go to Julie Darling's Facebook page and post it.

photo The fresh doughnuts are glazed right after frying.

"We couldn't keep those strawberry doughnuts on the shelf people bought them so fast; we're going to make that again this summer," general manager Scott Smith says.

Peach doughnuts are another brainstorming success perfect for summer, but Smith says there are some doughnut flavors Chattanoogans will only buy during specific seasons. For example, customers will only buy the Pumpkin doughnuts in the chilly autumn or winter cold. And he was surprised to see that customers only liked Peppermint doughnuts in the winter, perhaps because the red and white stripes as well as the taste remind them of Christmas candy canes.

"We try to keep some variety in the case so every time you come in, it's a little bit different than the last time," owner Kent Davis told the Times Free Press when his store first opened right before Valentine's Day 2010.

The ingredients for about 35 different flavors are in the store, ready to be mixed and baked and iced. On Thursday, doughnuts are made from 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. so if he has the ingredients on hand, Smith can whip up a newly created flavor minutes after the staff dreams it.

And customer reaction quickly show him which are hits. Just recently, the staff was surprised to see customers ignore a new Rum Raisin flavor, and they never warmed up to the Guava doughnut. The Nacho Cheese doughnut, a creation suggested by a customer, was just too edgy for Chattanooga palates, although the Maple-Frosted Pancake Batter doughnut decorated with bacon crumbles remains very popular.

But the biggest flavor fail was one the staff was sure would catch on: the Margarita doughnut.

"It was rum-flavored cake with lime frosting and sea salt sprinkles on top," Smith says with a wistful smile. "We sold maybe two. We gave the rest of them to the Community Kitchen. I hope the homeless people enjoyed them."

Julie Darling does not use nuts in any of its doughnuts out of concern for customers with allergies. Smith would like to find something that tastes like peanut butter -- but isn't -- so he can create a hypoallergenic Peanut Butter Cup doughnut. He thought poppy seed butter might be a good swap for peanut butter, "but it tasted terrible! Don't ever try it!" he warns.

But customers embraced some of the past year's brainstorm doughnuts, including The Blue Cheese (the doughnut actually has purple frosting with blueberries in a cream cheese filling), Blackberry Pie, Kettle Korn and last week's Mint Chocolate. The new flavors are announced on the store's Facebook page and Twitter feed.

The brainstorm ended at 8 a.m. last week and a photo of the Mint Chocolate doughnut topped with jade-colored icing and black stripes was on the Facebook page by 9 a.m.

Things are a bit simpler for George and Lindsay Aquila, who bought the Monkey Town Donut Company food truck seven weeks ago. The truck came with recipes for cinnamon-sugar doughnuts, nothing more. But the couple found inspiration in the Chattanooga Market where they set up every Sunday. George says they bought organic, freeze-dried strawberry powder and are playing with ideas for a new flavor that combines the powder with fresh fruit.

"Right now, we're concentrating on the mastering the basics in a truck kitchen that has about 5 feet of space to move and no air conditioner," George says with a laugh.

He is keeping his day job as a high school teacher "and we have four kids to take care of. But business seems steady."

photo Molly Hall hand decorates the doughnuts once they're glazed at Julie Darling Donuts in North Chattanooga.

To make it worthwhile to set up at events like Nightfall, which serves beer, they've been playing around with new flavor ideas.

"We have been thinking of creating a savory doughnut that would go with alcohol," he says.

Back at Julie Darling, Kristen Gordon peruses the doughnut-crammed glass case. A slender blonde, she doesn't look as if she spends much time thinking about pastry. But she offers an idea for a new flavor that the staff finds intriguing.

"How about tiramasu?" Gordon suggests, referring to the rich Italian dessert typically made from coffee-drenched lady fingers, mascarpone cheese flavored with cocoa and fluffy meringue. "That's one of my favorite desserts. I think it could be a delicious doughnut."

Later that day, 7-year-old Kyle Palmer is eagerly pulling his mom by the hand toward the front door of the doughnut emporium. When asked what new flavor he would like in a doughnut if he could have anything in the world, he replies: "Alligator."

His mother thinks his answer was overly influenced by his morning at the aquarium.

Contact Lynda Edwards at ledwards@timesfree press.com or 423-757-6391.

Doughnut recipes

Cheater Doughnuts Deep frying oil 7 12 ounces buttermilk biscuit dough Sugar (4 tablespoons sugar) or cinnamon-sugar mixture (4 tablespoons sugar to 1 teaspoon cinnamon) In deep fat fryer or heavy saucepan, heat about 1 quart oil to 350 degrees. Separate dough into 10 biscuits. Cut hole in center of biscuits, using small cookie cutter. Fry biscuits and holes in oil a few at a time for about 1 1/2 minutes on each side or until golden brown. Drain on paper towels. While warm, roll in sugar or cinnamon and sugar mix. Yield: 10 doughnuts and holes -- Food.com Copycat Krispy Kreme Doughnuts 3 packages (1/4 ounce) yeast 1/2 cup water 2 1/4 cups milk, scalded, then cooled 3/4 cup sugar 1 1/2 teaspoons salt 3 eggs 1/2 cup shortening 7 1/2 cups all-purpose flour Canola oil for frying 1/2 cup butter 3 cups powdered sugar 2 1/4 teaspoons vanilla 6 -9 tablespoons evaporated milk (can substitute regular milk or water for milder flavor) Proof the yeast by adding it to the warm water. Mix it up and let it rest. Scald the milk in a microwave or on top of the stove, and let cool. (You scald the milk because it has an enzyme in it that will kill the yeast, preventing the doughnuts from rising.) Combine yeast, milk, sugar, salt, eggs, shortening and 3 cups flour. Beat on low for 30 seconds, scraping bowl constantly. Then beat on medium speed for 2 minutes, scraping bowl occasionally. Carefully stir in remaining flour until smooth. Cover and let rise until double, 30-60 minutes, depending on the yeast you used. After the dough has risen, turn dough onto floured surface; roll around lightly to coat with flour. Gently roll dough 1/2-inch thick with floured rolling pin. Cut with floured doughnut cutter. Separate doughnuts and holes since they take different frying times. Cover and let rise until double, 30-40 minutes. To make the glaze, melt the butter and stir in powdered sugar and vanilla until smooth. Add milk (or water) until desired consistency is reached. In a deep pan, heat the oil to 350 degrees. A thermometer makes this part foolproof. Carefully place the doughnuts in the oil. Cook on each side for about one minute. Use chopsticks to flip the doughnuts and remove them from the oil. Place them on a rack or paper bags or paper towels to drain. While still hot, dip the doughnuts in the glaze and set them on a rack to dry. You can dip both sides of the doughnuts or just one. -- instructables.com Chocolate-Caramel Doughnut Holes 2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour (spooned and leveled), plus more for work surface 1 cup cocoa powder 2 teaspoons baking powder 1/2 teaspoon baking soda 1 1/2 teaspoons coarse salt 1 cup sugar, plus more for coating 3/4 cup low-fat buttermilk 4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, melted 2 large eggs 28 to 30 store-bought soft caramel squares, unwrapped 5 to 6 cups vegetable oil, for frying Sift together flour, cocoa powder, baking powder, baking soda and salt into a large bowl. In another bowl, whisk together sugar, buttermilk, butter and eggs until thoroughly combined. Stir buttermilk mixture into flour mixture just until a smooth dough forms. On a lightly floured work surface, pat dough flat and lightly flour. Roll out dough to a 1/3-inch thickness. Cut into rounds with a 2 1/2-inch cookie cutter (to lift rounds from work surface, use a thin spatula). Reroll and cut scraps. Place a caramel in the center of each round, pinch dough closed around it, and gently roll into a smooth ball. Line a baking sheet with paper towels. Fill a wide shallow bowl with 1 inch sugar. In a large heavy pot, heat 4 inches oil until it registers 350 degrees on a candy thermometer. In batches of 4, fry doughnuts 5 minutes, turning once with a slotted spoon and adjusting heat as needed. Transfer doughnuts to prepared sheet; let rest 4 minutes. Roll in sugar to coat. Serve immediately. -- marthastewart.com

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